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Application- Permit
No. 7876 GARFIELD COUNTY BUILDING, SANITATION, and PLANNING DEPARTMENT 109 8th, Stmt, Suite 303 Glenwood Springs, CO 81601(970) 945.8212 bgo (QC L� J464,1 -D26? 1. C a5b Job Address Nature of Work Building Permit Use of Building ,,,,D C1 owner Amount of PermitS oC� Date %� c'?.( a� I /6ec Clerk Contractor • GARFIELD COUNTY BUILDING PERMIT APPLICATION OARFIELD COUNTY (OIENWOOD SPRINGS), COLORADO TELEPHONE: (970) 945-8212 PERMIT NO. 72' 7 INSPECTION LINE: (970)384-5003 PARCEvsCHEDULE NO. /1 2c- 2 3 P /ZS ' --civ-0s,3 JOB ADDRESS: 0 Kc5.0 _S, 1-1- C D 76.5-;)---_, 1 BLOCK NO. SUBDIVISION/EXEMPTION R„S CA) It_tlncti.<A StirbQ t. LOT No.1�C+ 4 2°^�`Ifa 0-Alek .Stec& A° ' 2// i ". •i.f _Co 't 7d /970 W "itPid 517/ 3 °DN"`"C"°R ,SaitC. MORIN (C.1( mi l %x761 LAND: 4 ARCIIIITCRINIONEECR ...54, it c AMEN NC L/C NO: e a4 IS. OF OCRUDINO IQ."' Cur E°T Q.rr.aLOT //i 7 / Aci rs ILEIGHr NO. OFPLOOR$ 4 6 UM Or OUILLelOS,44,y4 4h4 awe 11(r fN I . a4k0.- /2-KA-0--axidLek# ¢il= WORE• 7 DOOM yC CA , lio he 6 8 O CLAIR OP WORE: Ka" OADDITION CALM/MON MOVE,CROgVE 9 710 OVe*E CARPORT: osRM� CDOURIJI GOMM 21" C IINTRWAYPIERINT . ^ „ J1J/ reA 06!a iIB$BMAOBDpPO$AL{ *MAN VALUATION OF WORK $ Amway VALUM Ii $ C7 v �1540.(1-0 A SEPARATE COLORADO. TIES PERMIT TIES AUTHORIZED WORK �RK� I HEREBY KNOW THE GOVERNING HEROIN AUTHORITY LOCAL CONSTR NOTICE EL ECIRJCAI. PW.$IT 18 REQUIRED AND MUST BE ISSUED BY TETE STATE OF BECOMES NULL AND VOID IF WORK OR CONSTRUCTION IS NOT COMMENCED WITHIN 320 DAYS, OR IF CONSTRUCTION OR RK PS COMMENCED. OA ABNDONED FOR A PERIOD OF 110 DAYS AT ANY TIME CERTIFY THAT I HAVE READ AND EXAMINED 11418 APPLICATION AND SAME TO BE TRUE AND CORRECT. ALL PROVISIONS OF LAWS: THIS TYPE OF WORK WILL BE COMPLIED WITH WHETHER SPECIFIED OR NOT. THE GRANTING OF A PERMIT DOES NOT PRESUME TO GIVE TO VIOLATE OR CANCEL THE PROVISIONS OF ANY OTHER STATE OR 14W REGULATING CONSTRUCTION OR THE PERFORMANCE OF *N. / / PLAN CHECK F : I d 9 �.(16 PEluar FEE: (CEO. Z S- IOrIALF&8: ( DATE PERMIT ISSUED: N �`� / `H I �tOUP: CONST: TYPE: n � �I + /� / I _ V N ZONING: SETBACKS: gAr,rOoaRRctor a " .. +% �, . // . ,�/'r 12iII 20�6b ' A" r.. IEDS NO. & 3 CDt /.5b .I}ALu n..f. .. ► • . . Dept. APPS AGREEMENT PERMISSION 1S HEREBY GRANTED TO 1118 APPLICANT AS OWNER CONTRACTOR AND/OR THE AGENT OF THE. CONTRACTOR OR OWNER TO CONSTRUCT 11111 STRUCTURE AS DETAILED ON PLANS AND SPECIFICATIONS SUBMITTED TO AND REVIEWED BY THE BUILDING DEPARTMENT. IN CONSIDERATION OF THE ISSUANCE OF THIS PERMIT, THE SIGNER HEREBY MMES TO COMPLY WITH AIL BUILDING CODES AND LAND USE RE(IIJLATIONS ADOPTED BY QARFIEID COUNTY PURSUANT TO AUTHORITY GIVEN LN 30.21.201 CRS AS AMENDED. THE SIGNER FURTHER AGREES THAT IF THE ABOVE SAB) ORDINANCES ARE NOT FULLY COMPLIED WCT1I IN THE LOCATION, ERECTION, CONSTRUCTION AND USE OF 1118 ABOVE DESCRIBED STRUCTURE, THE PERMIT MAY THEN BE REVOKED BY NOTICE FROM TII8 COUNTY AND THAT THEN AND THERE IT SHALL BECOME NULL AND VOID. TIM ISSUANCE OF A PERMIT BASED UPON PIANS, SPECIFICATIONS AND 01188 DATA SHALL NOT PREVENT THE BUILDING OFFICIAL FROM THEREAFTER REQUIIUNO THE CORRECTION OF ERRORS IN SAID PLANS. SPECIFICATIONS AND 07m& DATA OR FRO PREVENTING BUILDING OPERATION BEING CARRBID ON THEREUNDER WHEN IN VIOLATION OF THIS CODE OR ANY OTHER ORDINANCE OR REGULATION OF THIS JURISDICTION. THE REVIEW OF THE SUBMITTRD PLANS AND SPECIFICATIONS AND INSPECTIONS CONDUCTED THEREAFTER DOES NOT CONSTITUTE AN ACCEPTANCE OF ANY RESPONSIBILITIES OR LIABILITIES BY GARFIEID COUNTY FOR ERRORS. OMISSIONS OR DISCREPANCIES. TIIE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THESE ITEMS AND IMPLEMENTATION DURING CONSTRUCTION RESTS SPECIFICALLY WITH IE ARCHITECT, DESIGNER BUILDER AND OWNER. COMMENTS ARE INTENDED TO��� CONSERVATIVE AND IN SUPPORT OFT E OWNERS INTEREST. �''F Q ,003 I IIEREBY ACKNOWLEDGETHAT I HAVE READ AND UNDERSTAND THE AGREEMENT ABOVE. (11NIT1AL1 L Lw The following items are required by Garfield County for a final inspection: 1. A final Electrical Inspection from the Colorado $tete Electrical Inspector; • 2. Permanent address assigned by Garfield County Building Department posted where readily visible from accdss Mo'ad; 3. A finished roof, a lockable house, conlplete,exterior siding, exterior doors and windows "installed, a complete kitchen with cabinets, a sink with hot & cold running water, non-absorbent kitchen floor coverings, counter tops and finished walls, ready for stove.andrefrigeratorcall necessary plumbing; 4. A complete bathroom, with wash bowl, tub or shower, toilet stool, hot and cold rurining water, non-absorbent floors and walls finished and a privacy door; 5. All steps outside or inside'over three (3) steps must have handrails, guard rails on balconies or decks over 30" high constructed to all 1994 UBC requirements; 6. Outside grading done to where water will detour away from the building; 7. Exceptions to the outside steps, decks and grading may be made upon the demonstration of extenuating circumstances, i.e. weather, but a Certificate of Occupancy will not be issued until all the required items are completed and a final inspection made. A CERTIFICATE OF OCCUPANCY WILL NOT BE ISSUED UNTIL ALL THE ABOVE ITEMS HAVE BEEN COMPLETED. * * * *CANNOT OCCUPY OR USE DWELLING UNTIL A CERTIFICATE OF OCCUPANCY (C.O.) IS ISSUED. OCCUPANCY OR USE OF DWELLING WITHOUT A C.O. WILL BE CONSIDERED AN ILLEGAL OCCUPANCY AND MAY BE GROUNDS FOR VACATION PREMISES UNTIL ABOVE CONDITIONS ARE MET. - I understand and agree to abide by the above conditions for occupancy, use and the issuance of a Certificate of Occupancy for the dwelling under building permit # 7 e 7 ( . /2-/!'.� -00 Sign: � Date bpcont Mac* a? ref - s oiec tl Gi4 as o 5 /i co Sr ecce (.es V PPG -0- ACA tPYd aq iv -- UHF A2CA Co617q! .� Jzci ..r CCV. PCIAci423q flee KS m11170 (2G, c C,c. o O. 8 S- I4G.0o 1 8 (C.00 I I 212.oa (G.o0 G o v j 2s-ef I s6.o b ,-77‘013. e -(c. es cb I D5 t 0.00 12/13/2000 03:07 6258627 ROAD AND BRIDGE Garfield Coun Garfield County Road and Bridge Department December 13, 2000 Mickey Steele CR. 250 CC: Garfield County Building and planing Department Dear Mr. Steele, The driveway that you have in place in is accordance with the Garfield County Road and Bridge Department's specifications for driveways and you do not need a permit for this may. If Irou have any questions or problems. please feel free to contact tee. Sincerely, Kraig Kuberry Foreman Garfield County Road and Bridge Department 902 Tsughei baugh Blvd. Suitt 305 RIAs, CO 81650 Pbo nes 970-625.8601 Pax 970425-8627 PAGE 01 4 GARFIELD COUNTY BUILDING AND PLANNING 970-945-8212 MINIMUM APPLICATION REQUIREMENTS for SINGLE FAMILY DWELLING CONSTRUCTION including NEW CONSTRUCTION ADDITIONS ALTERATIONS and 12 MOVED BUILDINGS In order to understand the scope of the work intended under a permit application and expedite the issuance of a permit it is important that complete information be provided. Adequate and complete information will prevent delays in the plan review process. Reviewing a plan and the discovery that required information has not been provided by the applicant may result in the delay of the permit issuance and in proceeding with building construction. The owner or contractor may be required to provide this information before the plan review may proceed. This causes delays because other plans that are in line fot review may be given attention before the new information may be reviewed after it has been provided to the Building Department. Please review this document to determine if you have enough information to design your project and provide adequate information to facilitate a plan review. If you do not, it may be helpful to obtain a book titled "Dwelling Construction under the Uniform Building Code". This book is available to you through this department at our cost. Also, please consider using a design professional for assistance in your design and a construction professional for construction of your project. To provide for a more understandable plan in order to determine compliance with the building, plumbing and mechanical codes, applicants are requested to review the following checklist prior to and during design. Applicants are required to indicate appropriately and to submit the completed checklist at time of application for a permit. January 1, 1999 Plans to be included for a Building Permit, must be on drafting paper at least 18"x24" and drawn to scale. Plans must include a floor plan, a concrete footing and foundation plan, elevations all sides with decks, balcony, steps, hand rails and guard rails, windows and doors, including the finish grade line. A section showing in detail, from the bottom of the footing to the top of the roof, including re -bar, anchor bolts, pressure treated plates, floor joists, wall studs and spacing, insulation, sheating, house - rap, (which is required), siding or any approved building material. A window schedule. A door schedule. A floor framing plan, a roof framing plan, roof must be designed to withstand a 40# per ft. up to 7,000 F.O.S. and an 80 M.P.H. wind. All sheets to be identified by number and indexed. All of the above requirements must be met or your plans will be returned. 1 Is a site plan included that indicates the distances of the proposed building or addition to property lines, other buildings, setback easements and utility easements? Yes yrs 2. Does the site plan include the location of the I. S.D.S. (Individual Sewage Disposal System) and the distances to property lines, wells (on subject property and adjacent properties), streams or water courses? Yes ye...3 3. Does the site plan indicate the location and direction of the County or private road accessing the property? Yes Ye -5 4. Do. the plans include a foundation plan indicating the size, location and spacing of all reinforcing steel in accordance with the uniform building code or per stamped engineered design? Yes }/-G 5. Do the plans indicate the location and size of ventilation openings for under floor crawl spaces and the clearances required between wood and earth? Yes yeS 2 6. Do the plans indicate the size and location of ventilation openings for the attic, roofjoist spaces's and soffits? Yes y5 7. Do the plans include design loads as required by Garfield County for roof snow loads, (a minimum of 40 pounds per square foot up to & including 7,000 feet above sea level), floor loads and wind loads? Yes Yea 8. Does the plan include a building section drawing indicating foundation, wall, floor and roof construction? Yes ye 9. Does the building section drawing include size and spacing of floor joists, wall studs, ceiling joists, roof rafters or joists or trusses? Yes )t$ 10. Does the building section drawing or other detail include the method ofpositive connection of all columns and beams? Yes ye s 11. Doesthe plan indicate the height of the building or proposed addition from the highest point of the building or addition measured at mid span between the ridge and the eave down to existing grade contours? Yes yeS 12. Does the plan include any stove or zero clearance fireplace planned for installation including make and model and Colorado Phase II certifications or phase H EPA certification? Yes No Are 13. Does the plan include a masonry fireplace including a fireplace section indicating design to comply with the Uniform Building Code Chapter 37? Yes No 4/0 14. Does the plan include a window schedule or other verification that egress/rescue windows from sleeping rooms and/or basements comply with the requirements of the Uniform Building Code? Yes yea No 15. Does the plan include a window schedule or other verification that windows provide natural light and ventilation for all habitable rooms? Yes ye 5 No 3 16. Do the plans indicate the location of glazing subject to human impact such as glass doors, glazing immediately adjacent to such doors; glazing adjacent to any surface normally used as a walking surface; sliding glass doors; fixed glass panels; shower doors and tub enclosures and specify safety azing for these areas? Yes No 17. Is the location of all natural and liquid petroleum gas furnaces, boilers and water heaters indicated on the plan? Yes No 18. Do you understand that if you are building on a parcel of land created by the exemption process or the subdivision process, are building plans in compliance with all plat notes and/or covenants? Yes yrS No 19. Do you understand that if you belong to a homeowners association, it is your responsibility to obtain written permission from the association, if required by that association, prior to submitting an application for a building permit? If you do not have written permission from the association, do you understand that the plan check fee will not be refunded should the architectural committee deny or reject your building plans? Yes yePS No 20. Will this be the only residential structure on the parcel? Yes y..5 No If no -Explain: 21. Have two (2 complete sets of construction drawings been submitted with the application? Yes 22. Do you understand that the minimum size a home can be on a lot is a 20ft. x 20ft.? Yes , ! � No 23. Have you designed or had this plan designed while considering building and other construction code requirements? Yes,.S No 24. Does the plan accurately indicate what you intend to construct and what will receive a final inspection by the Garfield County Building Department? Yes yrs No 25. Do you understand that approval for design and/or construction changes are required prior to the application of these changes? Yes ye No A3 26. Do you understand that the Building Department will collect a "Plan Review" fee from you at the time of application and that you will be required to pay the "Permit Fee" as well as any "School Impact" or "Septic System" fees required, at the time you pick up your building permit? Yes 1/i! S No 27. Are you aware that twenty-four (24) hour notice is required for all inspections? Inspections will be made from Battlement Mesa to West Glenwood in the mornings and from Glenwood Springs to Carbondale in the afternoon. Morning inspections must be called in by 12:00 p.m. the day before; afternoon inspections must be called in by 4:00 p.m. the day before. Failure to give twenty-four (24) hour notice for inspections will delay your inspection one (1) day. Inspections are to be called in to 384-5003. Yes ,/e5 No 28. Are you aware that you are required to call for all inspections required under the Uniform Building Code including approval on a final inspection prior to receiving a Certificate of Occupancy and occupancy of the building? Yes ye S No 29. Are you aware that the person signing the Permit Application, whether the "Owner", "Agent of the Owner", "General Contractor", "Contractor" or otherwise, is the party responsible for the project complying with the Uniform Building Code? Yes e') No 30. Are you aware that prior to issuance of a building permit you are required to show proof of a driveway access permit or obtain a statement from the Garfield County Road & Bridge Department stating one is not necessary? You can contact the Road & Bridge Department at 625-8601. Yes l " S No 31. Do you understand that you will be required to hire a State of Colorado Licensed Electrician and Plumber to perform installations and hookups, unless you as the homeowner are performing the work? The license number of the person performing the work will be required at time of ap licable inspection. Yes No 32. Are you aware, that on the front of the Building Permit Application you will need to fill in the Parcel/Schedule Number for the lot you are applying for this permit on prior to issuance of a building permit? Your attention in this is appreciated. Yes / S No 5 I hereby acknowledge that I have read, understand and answered these questions to the best of my ability. /Z/t2o signa - `" date s761 Phone: V7— (days); EZG ^ / ”0 (evenings) Project Name: 574 Ce 4e Res` Project Address: T, /x? ce 2 m Si 1-7'" Co ((CC rZ Notes: If you have answered "No" on any of the questions, you may be required to provide this information at the request of the Building Official prior to beginning the plan review process. Delays in issuing the permit are to be expected. Work may not proceed without the issuance of a permit. If it is determined by the Building Official that additional information is necessary to review the application and plans to determine minimum compliance with the adopted codes, the application may be placed behind more recent applications for building permits in the review process and not reviewed until required information has been provided and the application rotates again to first position for review, delay in issuance of the permit or delay in proceeding with construction. bpminreq 8/00 6 3 a z 2b zck; g0 z 14. Dr h � b p 1. a) cal -0 n) cei > p -0 b en E bo c ect 74H .0 r.+ g E La y 0 0 z o z County Road (Note the Road Number and Name) 1994 Building Cede Setbacks: 25 feet front and rear and 10 feet on the fides Snowload: 401bs. /sq. ft. up to 7000 feet Seismic: Zone 1 Windshear: 80 mph Wind exposure: B Windload: 151bs. /sq. ft. Frost Depth: 36 inches -30 inches from finished grade to top of footing (Liveload is snowload-imposed by snow) 4 GARFIELD COUNTY BUILDING and PLANNING NOTICE OF CLARIFICATION FIRE PROTECTION: It is the interpretation of this department that the provision of UBC Section 302.4, Exception Number 3, also applies to openings for access to attic space above a U occupancy. The access door in the ceiling of a garage must be self closing, tight fitting, solid wood door, 1-3/8ths inches thick, or have a 20 minute fire protection rating or the one hour fire separation wall between the garage and the dwelling must extend above the ceiling, all the way to the roof. ENERGY CONSERVATION Garfield County is enforcing Resolution 96-05 (Chap. 13 Energy Conservation). > 2" x 4" Exterior walls must be supplemented (Le. Rigid insulation with taped or sealed joints or other approved ways to comply with minimum county insulation requirements: R-19 — Walls; R-29 — Roofs; 1* R-11— Floors over unheated areas 1* Exception: Insulate foundation to frost line and install vapor barrier on ground surface. ( INSPECTION WILL NOT BE MADE UNLESS THIS CARD IS PASTED ON THE JOB 24 HOURS NOTICE RIUIREDPrC1 IONS BUILDING PERMIT GARFIELD COUNTY, COLORADO Date Issued"` .. . Zoned Area Permit No S'‘'7 AGREEMENT In consideration of the issuance of this permit, the applicant hereby agrees to comply with all laws and regulations related to the zoning, location; construction and erection of the proposed structure for which this permit is granted, and further agrees that if the above said regulations are not fully complied with in the zoning, location, erection and construction of the above described structure, the permit may then be revoked by notice from the County Building Inspector and IMMEDIATELY BECQ E NULL AND OID. Ust51F .‘44N.tapta. ale* Po( I. Address or Legal Descripti #1"4 aC OwnerS4Pe. inkit 114,Contractor 0 0-4# (Q _tea r Setbacks Front Side Side This Card Must Be Posted So It is Plainly Visible From The Street Until Final Inspection. INSPECTION RECORD Footing i Foundation -/: - 1 i _j -L ; /..211d,..Qi I.), Underground Plumbing r. -,i g -. Ar Insulation 7-31-0 .. Rough Plumbing .., 7--p / Drywall i Pp ; Chimney & Vent 7_3(._ pi r Electric Final (by State Inspector) q -41r al Final 9. jr,S 4©/, Piping Gas g g-1 -� Q�.\ p Electric Rough (By State Inspector) .- Septic Final g�,5 ) Framing 7—.2,7-� 4 / d,.... (To include Rota in place and Windows and Doors installed). Notes: ALL LISTED ITEMS MUST BE INSPECTED AND APPROVED BEFORE COVERING - WHETHER INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR, UNDERGROUND OR ABOVE GROUND. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ECO -Block www. eco -block. com 1-800-595-0820 As an ENERGY ST R PdrInv. EGO-Bkx:k LLC has cYhrmmetl MN this product mats Die ENERGY SPA pdae+mes ror away 9tItcre cy ATO4 TILT -UP CONCRETE ASSOCIATION Installation Manual ECO -Block www.eco-block.com 1-800-595-0820 Installation Manual July 2000 2 ABOUT THIS MANUAL This manual is intended to assist the contractor, or installer of the ECO -Block Insulating Concrete Forming System in the proper techniques of construction. This manual assumes that generally accepted construction practices have been employed when building with the ECO -Block Insulating Concrete Forming System. Structures built with the ECO -Block Insulating Concrete Forming System should be designed, engineered, and constructed in accordance with all applicable building codes and regulations. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 DISCLAIMER In keeping with ECO -Block, LLC policy of continuing research and development, we reserve the right to change or modify the contents of this manual at any time. It is the responsibility of the end user to obtain the most recent information available. Since ECO -Block, LLC has no control over installation or workmanship, no responsibility for results is expressed or implied. ECO -Block Insulating Concrete Form System and any other marks, drawings, or symbols are the trademarks of ECO -Block, LLC. ABOUT ECO -BLOCK ECO -Block is a highly versatile, cost-efficient, easy-to-use insulating concrete form (ICF) system. Its unique design is patented. The foam panels ship flat to save space and freight cost. Each panel contains an embedded plastic web every 8 inches on center. Workers at the job site quickly snap plastic connectors into the web to create complete forms, ready for stacking. Different lengths of connectors are available to create concrete walls 4, 6, or 8 inches thick using the same foam pieces. Additionally, two connectors can be hooked together end-to-end to create walls of greater thickness by using the ECO -Block plastic connector splice. Special right-angle forms are also available for making right- and left-hand corners. These corner forms speed construction and provide an exterior corner nailing strip. Because there are so many different spots to attach the connectors, itis easy to cut the blocks almost anywhere, vertically, horizontally, or at an angle, and still create a strong and stable form. ECO -Block is the fast, cost-effective way to get the benefits of insulating concrete forms: • Interior comfort • A solid, stable structure • Indoor quiet - STC 53 • Architectural variety and flexibility • Energy efficiency - R- 22 • No outgassing • Non-toxic • Structural durability • Resistant to natural disasters For further help and information, contact your local ECO -Block distributor or ECO - Block, LLC at 1-800-595-0820. • 3 16" Panels Connectors Note: Walls greater than 8" thick, can be made by using two or more connectors and a connector splice 4 Tkof Basics Design 6 Estimating - Forms 8 Estimating - Connectors and Concrete 10 Estimating - Rebar 12 Crews and Labor 14 Foundation 16 Layout and Guides 18 Tools 20 Form Assembly 22 Buck construction 24 First Course 26 Second Course 28 Third Course 30 Upper Courses 32 Floor Ledger 34 Wall Inserts 36 Pre -Pour Preparations 38 Ordering Concrete Equipment 40 • 5 Ordering Concrete 42 Pre -Pour Checklist 44 Concrete Pressures 46 Placing Concrete 48 Finishes and Attachments 52 Electrical and Plumbing 54 Exclusive Features Extended Wall Thicknesses 55 Brick Ledge 56 T -Walls 60 Tilt -Up Walls 62 Radius Wall 64 Appendices Product Specifications 66 Reinforcement Schedules 68 Technical Section 74 6 If you are starting with plans designed for another wall system, such as wood frame or concrete block, it is usually easiest to line up the interior side of the new ICF walls with the interior side of the original walls. If you do this all the interior dimensions can stay the same. Be sure to check for any outside site obstructions such as trees, walls, fences, etc. Living/ Dining Room DLI Kitchen Original Floor Plan Bath Q Q Bedroom Bedroom • 7 ECO -Block is so easy to cut that wall lengths, heights, and openings can all be selected without regard for where the joints between forms fall. Living/ Dining Room .11 Kitchen ECO -Block Floor Plan (new wall outline in green) Bath 0 a Bedroom Bedroom 8 Estimati Fornis • For the corners, divide the height of the wall by 16 inches. This is the number of courses. Multiply by the number of corners on the building to get the number of corner forms required. • For the straight 48 -inch forms, add up the outside perimeter of the building and divide by 4 feet then subtract the number of corners. The remaining number is the total number of straight forms required for one course. • Multiply the straight forms per course by the number of courses to get the number of straight blocks, including openings. • Add Corner blocks and straight blocks for the total number of forms. • Calculate the areas of windows and doors, and divide by 5.33 square feet to get the number of forms saved there. • Subtract the forms saved at openings from the total number of forms for a solid wall. • Add 1-3% for waste (the lower percentage if you're more experienced). This can be lowered by placing cut pieces back into the wall, if larger than 1 web and 2 foam bars. Technical Tip: When shipped, the corner forms will be packaged 6 to a bundle, 50% Left Hand & 50% Right Hand. This will automatically stagger the joints 16" on center. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Example: Height/16 inches = 9'4" / 16" = 7 courses total 7 x 6 corners = 42 corner forms (50% L. Hand=21, 50% R. Hand=21) Outside Perimeter = 48' + 31' + 20' + 12' + 28' + 19' = 158 158/4 feet = 40 then subtract the comers, 40 - 6 = 34 straight forms per course 34 x 7 courses = 238 straight forms total. Add number of corner blocks: 238 + 42 = 280 total forms. Openings = 26.66sf+ 17.33sf+ 16sf + 16sf = 76sf Divide by 5.33, 76/5.33 = 14 forms saved at openings Forms needed = 280 - 14 = 266 forms Add waste of 3%, 224 x 1.03 = 231 total straight forms needed, 42 x 1.03 = 44 comer forms needed 9 10 �` Esu .� oantecte4UM Coneire(r • Connectors 1 • Take the number of STD and Brick -Ledge forms and multiply by 12. • You'll need extra connectors for the bottom course, so take the perimeter length, divide by four (four feet per block) and multiply by six (six extra connectors per block on bottom course). 1 • Take the number of comer forms and multiply by 8. • Add these together. 1 1 Concrete • Take the total number of forms (straight plus corners) not including waste. • One cubic yard of concrete will fill: l 5 4 -inch forms 10 6 -inch forms 7.5 8 -inch forms 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 Example: Connectors: Straight forms + brick -ledge = 231 x 12 = 2,772 Corner forms = 44 x 8 = 352 Number of blocks per course: 158'14' = 40, Extra bottom course connectors: 40 x 6 = 240 2,772 + 352 + 240 = 3,364 Connectors total Concrete: Straight forms + corners = 224 + 42 = 266 total forms without waste 266/6 -inch forms = 266/10 = 26.6 cu. yds. • 12 THE FOLLOWING REBAR ESTIMATION ASSUMES CERTAIN AMOUNTS, SIZES, AND POSITIONING OF THE REBAR SOLELY FOR THE PURPOSES OF PROVIDING AN EXAMPLE. IN AN ACTUAL BUILDING THESE SPECIFICATIONS WILL COME FROM THE ENGINEER OR APPROVED ENGINEERING TABLES, AND MAY BE DIFFERENT FROM WHAT IS ASSUMED HERE: • Assume that we have one number 4 steel reinforcing bar at the top of the wall and at the 1/3 points of the wall, one number 4 every 2 feet vertically, one vertical along either side of each opening, an extra number 4 horizontally atop each opening, and one short diagonal bar at the top corners of each opening. • Generally rebar must overlap at least 20 bar diameters on each end, for a number 4 bar that is 10 inches. It comes in standard 20 -foot lengths. • Add the three extra bars that go over each opening. • Figure out how many feet around you have to go for horizontal rebar and account for the overlap. • Add on the verticals, including one extra along either side of an opening. • Add 1-3 % for waste Example: The perimeter is 158 feet. If you use 20 -foot rebar, and they overlap at each end by 10 inches, each one reaches 19 feet 2 inches. Since there are three horizontal courses, the bars must cover a total of 3 x 158 = 474 feet. At 19 feet 2 inches per bar, that will require 474'119'2" = 25 bars. Each opening requires one 6 foot bar horizontally and two 2 foot bars diagonally. That's 10 feet of rebar per opening, with four openings that's 20 x 4 = 40 feet of rebar or two 20 -foot bars. Total 20 -foot bars is 25 +2 = 17 bars. The vertical bars must fall every 2 feet, for 158/2 = 79 bars. Plus one vertical bar on either side of the four openings gives you 8 more bars, totaling 87 bars. At each of these positions you will need one dowel in the footing and one long bar to match or exceed the wall height. That leads to 87 dowels and 87 bars of 9' 1"(the wall height minus 3 inches). Add 3% waste: 27 x 1.03 = 28 20 -foot bars 87 x 1.03 = 90 dowels 87 x 1.03 = 90 9'1" bars • 1 1 • 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 • 13 Notes: • If you will build another story with ECO -Block on top of this ensure you have 12 to 18 inches of bar extended above top of first story level (to provide rebar overlap at cold joint). • You can order some of the bars pre-bent so you don't have to bend them yourself for the corners. • Horizontal rebar provides temperature and crack control. Vertical rebar provides for side loads, like wind, and vertical superimposed loads. 14 Crews Best results on building ECO -Block walls usually come from a crew that includes: • One Experienced Carpenter • One Experienced Concrete Worker • One or Two Laborers Almost as good is a crew of: • One Experienced Carpenter • One Apprentice Carpenter • One or Two Laborers With this crew you can get help from someone with concrete experience on the first couple pours. LABOR GUIDELINES The question is frequently asked- how much labor is required to install ECO -Block ICFs? After carefully monitoring many of our past projects, the following guidelines have been developed. These labor rate guidelines assume that the footings or concrete slab are in place and ready to accept the first course of forms. These rates also assume a standard height of 8 feet. The labor rates include erecting the forms, placing re -bar, concrete, and alignment system. Then stripping the alignment system, and cleaning the site. Below Grade Walls: Guidelines vary from .05 to .07 man-hrs/ft2 of wall area. In other words, if a person was being paid $20.00/hr and was experienced, the labor cost would be .05 man-hrs/ft2 x $20.00/hr $1.00/ft of wall area. Since each form unit occupies 5.3 ft2, the labor for each form would be $5.33/form unit. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 • Basics 15 If the person was being paid $20.00/hr but was less experienced or the building more complicated, then the labor cost could be higher at .07 man-hrslft2 or $1.40/ ft2 of wall, or $1.40 x 5.33 ft2/form unit = $7.42/form unit. Above grade walls: Guidelines vary from .07 to .09 man-hrslft2 of wall area. These guidelines are higher due to the fact that there are usually more window and door openings as well as more climbing required. Applying the above guidelines at a pay rate of $20.00/hr @.07 man-hrs/ft2 would equal $1.40/ ft2 of wall area or $7.42/form unit. At the higher rate of .09 man-hrslft2 @ $20.00/hr rate would equal $1.80/ft2 of wall or $9.54/form unit. These labor rates are offered only as guidelines, and may vary depending on the complexity of the project and experience of the installer. FOUNDATION Pick a crew for the footer or slab that is good enough to make it dead level (within 1/4 inch all around). This is very important when the first course of block is laid. A level footing/foundation will eliminate the requirements to shim or shave block to achieve a level wall. HVAC Try to get an HVAC crew experienced with superinsulated construction, or one that uses an energy software package. Crews that use old rules of thumb from conventional construction usually oversize the equipment by 30-50%. • 16 Get the footer or slab as nearly dead level as possible -within ± 1/4 inch all around to minimize the amount of adjusting you have to do on the first course of block to compensate. Get the dowels inserted exactly as they are specified. If the positions of the dowels aren't on the plans, ask the General Contractor or Engineer or your local building official, or refer to the "Reinforcement Schedules" section in back. The dowels go in exactly the same spots the vertical rebar goes. Make sure the dowels stick up at least as far as specified (usually 12 inches or high enough to allow cross wiring to the first horizontal rebar course.). Technical Tip: 1. Level footer/or slab to +1/4 in. all around. Slight adjustments can be made by shimming or cutting the forms. 2. "Step Footings" can be accommodated by pouring @ 16" thick increments to match the height of ECO -Block. 4 17 • 18 • Whether you are working off of a footer or a slab, snap chalk lines to mark where the outside of the ECO -Block forms will go. You may also snap a line on the inside, if you wish. Mark the sides of window and door openings, on the footing. This will serve as a reminder when you are building to cut out the openings. Footer Slab Technical Tip: Although not required, some builders like to use a PVC collar to capture the vertical rebar, when inserted from above. • 19 Footer with chalk lines Technical Tip: Shows optional PVC collars in place. Footer with collars 20 Some useful tools: Reciprocating Saw 0 occasional cuts in stacked formwork, also can be used without blade to consolidate concrete under openings and in corners Keyhole Saw small cuts and holes Wire Tying Tool speeding the wiring of rebar • Hand Saw o.. longer, straight cuts Rebar Tie Wires wiring bars securely into precise position Plastic Electrical Ties 30-34" .-sassos Lashing adjacent blocks together at critical points 1 1 • 1 Cordless Drill 1 1 Attaching things to the blocks with 1 screws 1 Hot Knife w/ICF ' Attachments 1 highly precise, 1 clean cuts 1 Rebar Cutter -Bender cutting bar to length and bending 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 • 21 Table Saw precise straight cuts 4 Foot 2x4 connecting ties Packaging Tape Perforated. Plumbers Strapping O O O O O O O O O O O attachments Electric Chain Saw very fast, spews foam bits, needs depth gauge or stop Hot Knife highly precise, clean cuts taping foam Low -expanding Foam Adhesive 1I gluing, filling gaps Router Hammer various fast, spews foam shavings, needs 1-1/2 inch bit The electrician and plumber will need something to cut grooves and rectangles in the foam for the cable and boxes (These cuts will be made after the placement of concrete). Options: 22 Fomi Assembly To assemble the forms quickly, set the bottom row of connectors onto #2 web "T's". Put a 2x4 across them and press or gently hammer it down to snap all the connectors in at once. Then do the same with the 5th or top row. Technical Tip: Use 1st assembled block as a jig to assemble successive blocks. -Do not impact the connectors with a metal hammer, but rather use soft faced tools, like wood, plastic, or rubber. 1 1 • 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 23 For the first (bottom) course of forms, snap in 3 rows of connectors, instead of 2. The bottom course needs the extra strength to resist the pressure of the concrete (See "Concrete Form Pressures" in the back). For the bottom course For the upper courses Note: More experienced builders may elect not to use 3 connectors on the bottom. 24 Build bucks for all the doors and windows of a story before you start the walls. Use pressure -treated lumber or wrap kiln -dried with tar paper or plastic wrap DR Sill Seal for all parts of the wood that will come into contact with concrete. Follow these steps: Make the buck out of lumber with a width that matches or exceeds the wall width. For the 11" block that's a 2x12. Rip it down to exact wall width. The lintel piece overlaps the jambs to rest on top of them. The jambs overlap the sill. On a window, the bottom sill is two lengths of 2x3 or 2x4 so you can pour concrete through it. Or you can use 2x12 and cut 3" or larger holes in it. • Take the rough opening size. Add 3 inches to the width for the thickness of the lumber on either side. This assumes that the nominal thickness is 1 1/2. • Cut a piece of the 2x12 to this length for the lintel. • For the jambs, take the height of the rough opening and add 1-1/2" for the thickness of one piece of lumber. Cut two pieces. • Now cut two pieces of 2x4 (for a window) or a single piece of lumber (for a door) the exact rough opening width for the sill. • Nail them together with the lintel (top) over the two jambs. (see p23) • Square the buck and attach vertical and horizontal braces to hold it square. Set anchor bolts in each jamb to hold the buck securely to the concrete or nail through the jamb into the concrete cavity with #20 galvanized nails. Technical Tips: Buck Installation — Leave a small gap (about 1/4") between the top or header of the window buck & the bottom of the ECO -Block course above. This allows for a slight bit of settlement while placing concrete. 1 1 • 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 4 25 Window Buck vertical brace horizontal brace Door Buck 26 Stand up the door bucks in position, plumb them, and hold them in position with kickers. If possible, run the kickers to the outside to keep the work area clear. Set a corner form at each corner. Place a left-hand corner form at the first corner, a right-hand corner form at the second, and so on all the way around. On each wall, set straight forms next to the corner forms at each end and stack inward. Stack so the forms meet at a door or under a window, if possible. Use Nylon Zip ties to tie the top connector of each comer block to the adjacent straight blocks. Cut the forms that butt up to a door buck as necessary. Where forms meet under a window or at the middle of a wall, cut one of the two. Technical Tip: Always cut on the form's score lines to keep the zig-zag tongues and grooves lined up correctly. Always cut a hair short so you don't have to wedge a form into place. If a cut leaves more than 8 inches of foam between connectors, attach a strap across the cut on each side of the form to reinforce the cut. 4 1 1 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 27 Wire or Zip tie the top connectors of all adjacent blocks together to hold them in line. Do this on the first course only. Technical Tip: Place a whole or cut piece of ECO -Block on each pt course block connection. Make sure that each connection is tight together before any cuts are made. In wall with no openings, stack toward center Stack toward window or door • 28 • Start at the comers again. Put left-hand comers on top of right-hand corners, and right-hand comers on top of left-hand corners, this will offset the joints 16" O.C. On each wall, work toward the middle again. Cut at the door buck again. On walls with no door, cut under the window again, but make sure you stagger the vertical joints at least 4-8 inches. Wire the top connectors of each corner block to the adjacent blocks again. If you have reached sill level for one or more windows, cut a notch in the wall for the buck, set the buck, and plumb it with kickers. Make sure the kickers are easy to adjust so you can re -plumb later. 4 29 If the plans call for horizontal rebar somewhere in the second course (between 16 and 32 inches), set it now. Bend corners pieces and set them at the corners of the wall. Set straight pieces in between. Lap each piece with its neighbor at least the required length (usually 12 inches, but check the plans or local code). Snap the bars into the notches provided on the webs. Note: Acceptable width apart is 3 diameters. (So far as I know there is no rule. Many people tie the bars together so there is no separation. Some recommend 1" coverage all around, in which case one would separate by at least 1".) • 30 Third ouise Follow the same rules as for the second course. After the third course is done, attach your ECO -Block Wall Alignment System. Set the upright posts precisely up to the chalk line for the wall. When you attach them to the wall, pull the wall up tight to put it exactly on the line. Screw upright to the webs in wall, when plumb attach foot of upright to slab or footing with concrete nails or tapcons. Technical Tip: Attach diagonal foot to soil or concrete with turn buckle in middle position so that it can be adjusted in either direction. ECO -Block Wall Alignment System Note: If the walk boards are 8 feet or more above the ground, OSHA requires that your scaffolding also have toe boards and hand rails. Place a set as close to each corner as possible while allowing scaffold planks to pass by each other. Then place bracing every 6'-8' of wall as necessary. 31 Technical Tip: Place Screws in top of slots and into webs. Snug them but do not over tighten. Blocks should be free to "settle" slightly as concrete is placed. ECO -Block Wall Alignment System installed • sz I Upper Courses Keep stacking up according to the same rules for the second and third courses. use strapping tape. can also be used. When you stack over the openings, cut out notches as necessary to go over the bucks. Then attach the bucks securely to the forms with a few wooden straps screwed across the face of the wall or Perforated metal strapping If the plans call for horizontal rebar in the top course, set it now. Set it so that each bar is offset from the horizontal bar below. If the horizontal bar below is set to the inside, set the top one to the outside. Drop one vertical rebar into each collar at the bottom of the wall, so there is one vertical next to each dowel coming out of the foundation. Thread it between the offset horizontal bars below, they keep it securely in the center of the wall. Tie each vertical to the horizontal along the top or to a connector to hold it firmly in the center of the wall. ire Technical Tip: Tie each vertical a little "off" the bottom, so it provides weight on the wall and helps hold the forms firmly together. Keep vertical bar down 3" from top of wall. 33 If this is the top story of ECO -Block, use vertical rebar that come 3" below the top of the wall or bottom of the sill plate. Remember to allow for any sill plate thickness. If you will continue up with another story of ECO -Block, Use longer rebar that will stick up out of the wall at least as far as the rebar are required to overlap with each other. • 34 Floor Ledger If the next story will also be ECO -Block, install a ledger for the floor before you pour. Mark the height of the bottom of the flooring members with a chalk line on the wall. Just above this line, centered on your ledger board cut out 3" rectangles of foam between the webs on the anchor bolt centerline. Meanwhile, cut 2x lumber to length to be the Ledger board. Drill holes in the board that will fall in the center of the holes in the foam and screw anchor bolts and washers into them to lock into the concrete. Technical Tip: into place. Screw the ledger to the ECO -Block webs to hold it The board will be in contact with the concrete, so remember to use treated lumber or cover the back of the ledger with a waterproofing membrane. 1 1 • 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 4 35 Floor Joist Hanger: Design Features: NEW! Innovative design allows builders to integrate joist hangers with insulated, poured concrete foundations. The 16 -gauge bracket is simply pushed into foam foundation forms. Rebars are slid into prepunched holes to lock hanger into position. Materials: 16 gauge galvanized steel Loads: 2,265 to 2,505 lbs. •�. r . . r : ' rr++- ,: aNun � MIS .: i _ EElir rjy� ta",...+. flyd.:xt..0 lr[: -a-u "�.. r r �1�r�r -�1alLl+tl� 7.171',.yPyi,+ IIIIII RIMrm. r :T ill r.111 t;{•3,E-.1..111�1-Y7- id -t id- 1 b., -,-as imRF— I. r�110- P r -ye1 ni '. -, 74i /",t - 4 Ern � I Ism 0 O 101 ad 112 If®If®tli till _ MEM I10I1ZEM _. 1111/11 © 10-10d K 1 112 ®lll®lfiil I Itif I MIMI Ki WM 11=11111110:1111lll 71100® 10-1041K1112®®Itlt . IlliEi 11201 GUMMI WU 121303 INA fraIMAM 10.10d len NMI MEM IBM IIMZIM NEM ELM EeerIq Stahmers ere required when I-.loksls err used. 100 s 1 112 nail% era 9 gaups {0,141) Inch diameter) by 1 I/O inches IonQ. 03 Y 3+6 61Mne1sr reinforcing steel meeting reuireme,gs of ASTM A•415 grade 40 - min 1.12". 05 k fid dlangfer reinforcing slid meeting requirements of ASTM A-615 grade 40 - min 4..36'. #5 Grade 40 ASTM A-615 Full Length Core Reinforcing Bar (Minimum Length o12 to 6 lest if not core reinforced) Two #3 reinforcing bars (minimum of 1 foot long wired to #5 vertical) Embedment Depth w U.S. Patent # 5,228,261 Concrete Floor Ledge: It is also possible to use the ECO -Block brick ledge form on the inside to create a concrete ledge on which to set the floor BRICKLEDG SIDEPANEL 36W 1 In 1 r i, r 1 • Put sleeves for penetrations and anchors for interior walls into the formwork before the pour. Place a sleeve for anything that will have to pass through the wall, such 1 as: • 1 • • Sewer connection Water, electric, phone, CATV and gas service • Wire for outdoor lights and doorbells • Pipe for outdoor spigots Use a length of PVC pipe equal to the width of the wall. Use a diameter just larger than the diameter of whatever will go through it. Cut holes in the foam to hold the sleeve tightly in place. 1 Locate the interior walls. For each one push 2 anchor bolts through the foam to attach to the end stud later or attach with tapcon at a later time, after the pour. Technical Tip: Make a comprehensive list of penetrations and add to a pre - pour checklist. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 4 37 If you will side some or all of the building with brick or masonry, push brick ties through the foam at the recommended positions. With their ends exposed inside the cavity the concrete will lock them into place. You may also elect to screw the brick ties directly to the web after the pour. 38 Plumbing the wall Plumb and straighten all walls before the pour. 1 1 • 1 Attach a string linealong a o g the top of each wall on the outside. It is wise to lean the walls in about 1/2" at it's mid -point. This allows you to push them out to perfect' plumb right after the concrete is placed. One worker measures along it to make sure the distance between string and wall is consistent. He calls down to another' who adjusts the kickers in or out wherever the wall is out of plumb. Technical Tip: Again, check to make certain that the diagonal turnbuckles o' the wall alignment system are adjusted to the middle of their travel. 1 Coverinfl the top of wall If you will build another story on top of this one, cover all the top edges of the wall with wide tape or something else removable. This keeps the tongues on top' protected from concrete, for easy stacking up above. Technical Tip: 4-6 foot pieces of plastic or aluminum gutter work well to cover the top of the wall. These pieces maybe moved along as you pour. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 • 39 Turnbuckles should be adjusted to mid- position Wall should be tipped in slightly at this position. 40 • 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Below -grade pours (such as foundations) can be done out of the chute of the concrete truck or conveyer, however using a pump is best. Above -grade pours require lifting equipment. Most popular is the boom pump because of its easy maneuverability. Order one with a line reduction to a 3 -inch hose and with two nintey-degree angles near the end (forming an "S"). Both o these slow down the flow of the concrete. A line pump is smaller, and often less expensive. Order one with a 3 -inch line or less. You will need 1-2 workers on the ground during the pour to help move the line. Technical Tip: Always wear hard hats when placing concrete with over- head equipment. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 • 41 Concrete Truck Conveyor 42 • Amount After the wall is built and ready to pour, re -estimate the amount of concrete. Do not rely on your original estimate. The layout may have changed. A quick way to re -estimate the number of cubic yards of concrete you need is to count up the number of blocks in the walls, and divide: For 4 -inch walls Divide by 15 (one yard fills 15 blocks) (one yard fills 10 blocks) (one yard fills 7.5 blocks) (one yard fills 6 blocks) (one yard fills 5 blocks) For 6 -inch walls For 8 -inch walls For 10 -inch walls For 12 -inch walls Add 5% for waste. Divide by 10 Divide by 7.5 Divide by 6 Divide by 5 Mix We recommend the following Compressive strength Aggregate size Water/cement ratio Slump specifications for the concrete: 3,000 psi at 28 days 3/8" for the 4 -inch block; 1/ " for the 6; 3/4 " for the 8 Less than 0.6 4-6" If the engineer or architect on the job specifies another mix design, follow their specifications. DO NOT ADD EXTRA WATER TO THE CONCRETE, EITHER AT THE PLANT OR AT THE JOB SITE. THIS PRODUCES WEAK CONCRETE AND INCREASES THE PRESSURE ON THE FORMS. GENERALLY SPEAKING ADDITIONAL ADDITIVES ARE NOT NECESSARY 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 • 43 14 blocks 25 blocks 74 blocks Total Blocks: 266.5 Concrete Required: 266.5/10 = 26.65 Add 5% waste: 26.65 x 1.05 = 28 7 blocks at corner 49 blocks 7 blocks at corner 7 blocks at corner 39 blocks 7 blocks at corner 26 blocks • 44 Reserve a few hours the day before you pour to double-check the wall. Foam is easy to correct, concrete is hard Item Done Does the layout match the plans everywhere? Are the walls plumb everywhere? Are the walls square? Is the top of the wall level? Are all bucks in place, plumb, and square? Is each buck securely connected to the forms? Are all bucks diagonally braced against racking? Are all cuts and weak spots reinforced? Are all sleeves in place and glued securely? Are all anchor bolts for interior walls in place? Is the top course of horizontal rebar (if any) in place? Are all vertical bars in position and wired securely? • 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 45 Item Done Is the ledger (if any) in place and securely fastened everywhere? Have you planned out the position of anchor bolts or straps (if any) at the top of the wall? Do you have enough anchor bolts or straps for the tor of the wall on hand? Do you have squares of plywood and scrap 1 x4s on hand to screw over the wall if weak spots appear? Have you received your building department inspection and approval? Have you received your engineer inspection and approval (if necessary)? Is the job site clear for the operation of the concrete truck, pump (if any) and the crew that will be on the ground? Is the concrete ordered? Is the pump (if any) ordered? 46 During the pour, concrete puts outward pressure on the forms. ECO -Block is designed to withstand it. However, the installer needs to avoid steps that would dangerously increase these pressures. The outward pressure is highest at the bottom of a lift. That is the reason for extra connectors and bracing near the bottom. 0 1' 2' 3' 4 O PSF 150 PSF 300 PSF 450 PSF 600 PSF As the concrete hardens, the pressure gradually reduces to near zero. By the time the crew begins the second lift, the concrete of the first lift has usually cured enough that there is little likelihood of difficulties in the bottom of the wall. As the second lift is poured, the highest pressure occurs at the bottom of the second lift. 0 2' ----------_--- 4' 6' 8' • 600 PSF I 1600 PSF 600 PSF 3~`' 600 PSF First lift Second lift • 47 Things that increase the outward pressure are: • The force of the falling concrete • Vibration • Water added to the concrete As the concrete falls into the formwork it exerts outward pressure about 1.5 times the pressure it exerts when it is resting in the forms. Many recommendations are geared to minimizing this extra pressure, including using an S-bend on a boom pump, using a 3 -inch line for any pump, and breaking the fall of the concrete from a chute with a shovel. Not doing these things increases the pressure and the risk. The maximum pressure is at the bottom of the lift, so that is where to watch most carefully. Vibration also increases the pressure about 1.5 times. The problem is less severe with a smaller diameter vibrator. Recommended diameter is 3/4 -inch. Under no circumstances use a vibrator more than 1 -inch in diameter. In vibration maximum pressure also occurs at the bottom of the wall. Other forms of vibration (hitting the wall, applying a hand sander or reciprocating saw externally) have a similar but weaker effect. Adding extra water to the concrete can increase pressures more than 1.5 times depending on the amount added. It also weakens the final concrete, and may weaken it below what is required. Therefore ADDING EXTRA WATER TO THE CONCRETE IS NOT RECOMMENDED. Note: Because the cavity on a 4" wall tends to fill much faster than a 6" or thicker wall, the concrete pressures tend to occur quicker and are often greater than larger walls. PLACE CONCRETE VERY SLOWLY WHEN FILLING A 4' WALL! 48 Placi Concrete • Especially if no one on your crew has much experience placing concrete, plan to get experienced help the first couple of times you do this. 1 Select a wall to start on. Start by placing through the sill of each window buck until the concrete fills the wall underneath. After each window is placed, start placing at one end of the wall about four feet off the rr corner, but NOT directly into the corner. (Place concrete per table on adjacent page.) Then move down the wall about two feet and fill up to same level again. Work your way down the wall until you are about four feet off of the other corner. Fill that point also up to same level, but do not aim concrete directly into the corner. Skip over the bucks, filling up to the same level on either side of them. Follow the same procedure on each other wall, working around the building in a consistent direction (clockwise or counterclockwise). Once you are all the way around, repeat this procedure (going up), as many times as necessary to fill the wall. If you are pouring from a chute, have one worker hold a shovel at the bottom of the chute to direct the concrete and slow its fall. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 4 49 Maximum Allowable Pour Rate vs. Temperature Temperature F (C) Pour Rate: ft/hr (M/Hr) 50 (27.8) 2.9 (0.9) 55 (30.6) 3.2 (1.0) 60 (33.3) 3.4 (1.0) 65 (36.1) 3.7 (1.1) 70 (38.9) 4.0 (1.2) 75 (41.7) 4.3 (1.3) 80 (44.4) 4.6 (1.4) 85 (47.2) 4.9 (1.5) 90 (50.0) 5.2 (1.6) 95 (52.8) 5.5 (1.7) 100 (55.6) 5.7 (1.7) 50 Have 1-2 workers on the ground at all times consolidating concrete and watching for bulges, should they occur. Consolidate the concrete continuously as it is poured. Ways to do this are: Consolidation Methods: • With an internal vibrator of 3/4 -inch diameter or less. Remember to consolidate from the bottom of the wall towards the top, and be careful not to hit the side of the form. Technical Tip: Protect the top of the wall from damage with aluminum or plastic gutter pieces. • "Rodding" -plunge a length of rebar up and down a few times into the concrete from above. Technical Tip: Put a 2x4 block against the wall over a web and tap it lightly with a hammer or vibrate it with a hand sander or the end of a reciprocating saw with no blade in it. Consolidate every foot or so repeatedly down each wall, following the pour. If the crew spots a bulge, reinforce it with a square of plywood or some lx4s screwed flat over the bulge. Screw these wood reinforcements directly to the ECO -Block webs with sheet rock screws • 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 51 If any of the foam blows out, stop the concrete. This rarely happens but it is possible if the rate of placement has been too fast, or the concrete is too wet. Move the placement to the next wall and work there while the crew repairs the hole. Clean out the concrete down to the bottom of the hole, replace the torn form fragment, then cover it with plywood or lx4s and screw those to the webs at least 16 inches, or 2 webs, beyond the torn form. The placement can return to the repaired wall at the next convenient break point. If you will be building another story of ECO -Block on top of this one, leave the concrete rough on top and at least 4" below the top of the wall. If instead a roof or frame walls will go on top, trowel the concrete smooth and check it for level at close intervals. Insert anchor bolts or straps as necessary for the roof trusses or top plate to go on above. Continuously during the placement, check the string line again and adjust the braces as necessary to bring the wall to perfect plumb everywhere. Immediately after the pour, check all dimensions, including diagonals and adjust as necessary. Any time after the concrete has set up (at least one day), remove the straps from both sides of each buck. Do not remove the bracing and scaffolding until the concrete has reached adequate strength, usually 3-5 days. • 52 • Interior Workers can screw wallboard to the plastic webs just as it attaches over frame construction. You can use a foam -compatible adhesive in addition or instead of screws if you prefer. Paneling also attaches as it does over frame construction. Screws are recommended. If you nail, use ring -shaft nails for a good grip. For very heavy wall -mounted fixtures (like a sink), rout out the foam to make room for 2x lumber that you attach directly to the concrete with concrete screws. Later you can screw the fixture to the wood. Where you will mount cabinets, it is a good idea to attach plywood in place of wallboard, sized to be just a little smaller than the outline of the cabinets. This gives a good surface for fastening the cabinets. Screw the plywood to the ECO -Block webs at close intervals. Butt the wallboard directly up to the edge of the plywood. o ' 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 • 53 Exterior Any nailed or screwed siding (vinyl, clapboard, hardboard) attaches to the ECO -Block webs just like studs. When nailing, use ring -shank nails for a good grip. ECO -Block can accommodate either a cementious based stucco or an acrylic -based product. These are typically reinforced with fiberglass mesh. They are durable and resist cracking in both hot and cold climates. For brick or other masonry, insert brick ties through forms and into the cavity before you pour to lock them into the concrete. An alternative method is to secure the brick ties directly to the web with screws. Below grade, use a dampproofer or waterproofer just as you would over a conventional basement. Self-adhesive membranes work well. Spray -on and roll-on products work well if they are foam -compatible. Products with solvents in them can dissolve the foam, so check with the manufacturer or distributor of the product concerning application to EPS. • 54 1 Cut out the foam for boxes with a hot knife or router. The boxes can be screwed or glued to the concrete. This is done after the concrete has been placed in the forms. Carve channels in the foam for cable with a hot knife, router, or electric chain saw. Put a slant on the channel so it has a lip on bottom to hold the cable in place. You can spot glue the cable with adhesive foam, too. Make channels for plumbing lines the same way. For larger lines you can box out the wall. It is also possible to put pipe in the wall before the pour. But again, this creates a potentially severe weak spot, so check with the engineer first. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 • Editat 55 It is possible to get a wall of almost any thickness by linking the standard 4, 6, and 8 -inch connectors with ECO -Block connector splices. After linking connectors to the desired length, insert them to assemble forms according to the usual procedure. Utilization of our 1" Extensions allow wall Thickness from 4 to 24" thick, in increments of 1". Be certain to include all necessary connectors and splices in your materials estimates. Also, on walls 10 inches thick or more, connect at three locations (T's) per web. This is only necessary for courses exceeding 600pcf, or usually the first three courses. (see concrete pressures, p44) 56 Creating The Brick Ledge To create a brick ledge, use ECO -Block's special brick ledge panels on the course where the brick is to begin. The extended webs of the panels form the extended width of the brick ledge and provide a platform for the forms stacked above to rest on. After concrete placement, be sure to level off the concrete that will go under the brick. Care should be taken to maintain a straight outside edge. This can be accomplished with wood or metal screwed directly to the webs horizontally. Brick ledge units hold more concrete than a straight form. One yard of concrete fills 8.5 brick ledge forms on a 4" wall 6.5 brick ledge forms on a 6" wall 5.5 brick ledge forms on a 8" wall So if you use them adjust your concrete estimation. 4 Eidak 57 Marking the Brick Ledge for Mitering Begin by placing the Brick Ledge panel over the course below, being sure to line up the webs with the lower course, with the Brick Ledge panel extending past the outside comer below. Line up the third web of the brick ledge with the first web of the corner block. Make a mark on the Brick Ledge panel where it lines up over the "point" of the 90 -degree form. Next, count 5 bars beyond the first mark and make a mark at the top of the panel (the second mark represents the outermost portion of the Brick Ledge Corner.) Use a fine point marker, draw a line down the "flat face" of the Brick Ledge panel, stopping where the "angled face" begins. Next, make a mark running, shown, from the bottom of the line on the "flat face" to the first mark that was made on the bottom of the panel (a straight edge works well). It has been found very helpful to make an additional mark on the bottom of the panel, showing the angle for the saw blade to maintain, below. 58 rtrii • Cutting the Brick Ledge Panel 1. It is easier to cut the Brick Ledge panel when it is upside down, resting on a level surface with the exterior face of the panel towards you. It also helps to set the Brick Ledge panel on a surface like dirt or grass (this will prevent unwanted movement during cutting). 2. Use the line on the bottom of the panel as a guide for the angle (degree of cut) that the saw blade must maintain during the entire cut. 3. While maintaining the proper saw angle, follow the diagonal line marked on the sloped face of the panel. A note here; as this portion is cut, a web will need to be cut. When the web is encountered, maintain high "rpm's" with the saw blade while using a minimal amount of downward pressure. "Rough" sawing of the web should lead to fractures of the form. 4. When you reach the vertical line on the flat face of the form, maintain the saw blade angle and your cut should follow the vertical line to completion. 5. After cutting the two Brick Ledge panels needed to form the corner, set them in place over the lower course of forms, prior to assembly with the standard panels (for the opposite side). How accurately the angle of cut was maintained will show at this time. Using a square, check the corner for square. One of three things has accrued: a perfect cut. In which case, go on to step 6. However, if the angle was cut to "shallow", 59 simply re -cut the ends of the Brick Ledge Panels while they are in place until the desired result is achieve. If the cut was made to "deep" (more angle than needed), a "shim" may be cut from scrap material to hold the Brick Ledge panels the correct distance from each other. 6. Assemble with the standard ECO panels and set in to place. Use 4 pieces of 1" strapping tape, each a minimum of 24" long to hole the brick ledge panels together at the "seam" of the corner. Measuring down from the top of the panel, place 1 piece of tape at 2", 6", 10" and 14". Position the tape horizontally, with equal amounts of tape on each side of the 2 brick ledge panels. Notes: The ECO standard panels forming the opposite side of Brick Ledge will also need to be cut. There are two easy ways to accomplish this: 1. A simple "butt" joint. Simply cutting square, vertical ends on the standard panels and `butting them together. 2. Cutting the miter joint. Simply use the course of forms below as a guide for cutting the standard panels. If the seam where the panels meet is a little more "open" than desired, simply use a small amount of minimal expanding, urethane spray foam to fill the gap. Use a good quality pruning or handsaw. If using a reciprocating saw, use a Fine tooth, metal cutting blade. Mark and cut the panel before attaching the connectors. 60 1 Tow -Wallis • With the ECO Block System, T -wall intersections are easily and quickly 1 accomplished. A "T" wall occurs when one wall has a second wall adjoin it in the middle of its run. To build a T -wall, place the first block of the wall that forms the "leg" of the "T" against the wall forming the "top" of the "T". Mark the panel of ' the "top" of the "T", indicating where the concrete core of the "leg" wall will be. This is the section that needs to be cut and removed. Should the concrete core of the "leg" wall occur where a web is positioned in the "top" wall, cut and remove this section of panel including the web. This situation is why we have the ONE -INCH EXTENSION/TEXAS T. Assembly 1 If the "leg" wall core occurs between the webs of the "top" wall, simply butt the forms together and use 2-36" ECO TIES around the connectors of both walls to pull the walls together. If the "leg" wall core occurs where a web has been removed, use 2 -Texas 1 T's attached to the second and fourth positions of the remaining web in the ' "top" wall. Use 2-36" ECO TIES to pull the walls together by slipping an ECO TIE through each of the Texas T's and around the connectors of the "leg" wall. 1 1 1 1 1 61 Technical Tips: Remember the "4 BAR" rule. If the cut panel of the panels have more than 4 bars showing past a web, additional shoring should be installed prior to placement of concrete. • Use caution when tightening the ECO TIES. It is possible to pull the outer panel of the "top" leg wall in too far. Properly tightened, there should be around 1/8' of inward deflection. • Place rebar as specified! • On the second course, alternate the cutting position, by passing the "leg" block all the way through the "T" block to a "flush" position with the inside of the foam side panel. • This provides overlap from course to course, and must be done on "all" successive courses. 62 TiltiJp Walis The ECO -Block panel can be easily added to tilt -up wall assemblies during the forming /placing process. Using the panels in tilt -up construction is the economical solution for high performance insulation and sound control (complete with furring/strapping on 8" centers). The versatility of the ECO -Block panel system insures that the design and performance objectives of the tilt -up structure will be achieved. The flexible ECO -Block panel can be used in many different tilt -up wall assemblies. It will increase the thermal performance and Sound Transmission Classification, while reducing the construction time (and cost) on most tilt -up structures. Interior Wet Set: ECO -Block panels can be "wet set" on the concrete tilt -up wall panel, after concrete has been placed. This provides insulation and "nailing strips" on the interior of the building after the tilt -up panels have been erected. In addition, this method saves the labor needed to "finish" the interior concrete surface. Exterior Insulation ECO -Block panels may also be placed on the tilt -up forms, prior to placement of steel and concrete. Having the panels on the exterior of the building increases the thermal performance of the assembly by a magnitude of 0.5 over insulating the interior surface of the tilt -up panel. In addition, having ECO -Block panels on the exterior of the structure allows for the immediate application of various stucco finishes. This reduces the amount of time needed for completion. Combination Method: The third method is to combine both of the previously mentioned assemblies by laying the ECO -Block panels within the tilt -up forms, placing the concrete and then "wet setting" panels on top. This assembly will result in a structure that is ready for stucco on the exterior and wallboard on the interior. The STC and thermal performance of this assembly will equal that of standard ECO -Block construction. 1 1 • 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 • 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 fulimitvk %Ws; 63 To construct an insulated tilt -up Wall by the second method, first lay the panels down on the ground and frame them with wood. Prior to the concrete pour, place rebar using four -inch connectors. Snap the connectors onto the webs in desired locations, then insert the rebar horizontally into the connectors and wire to the connector every four to six feet. This way, the four -inch connectors serve the same function as a rebar chair. The distance between the top rebar slot on the connector is exactly 2.5" above the surface of the EPS or 1.5" below the surface of the four inches of concrete, which is the exact engineering required by the code. 04. 414444P. 414 %P 44,4 +30>44"- >44° Pour concrete and allow to cure before tilting the wall section. The result is four inches of concrete on the outside and 2.5" EPS insulation on the inside. The furring strips are already in place. The wall is immediately ready to screw on the sheetrock. The result: a finished wall with R-11 insulation. 64 usW11 To create a radius wall: Step 1: Mark the inside and outside line of your radius on the footer or slab. Step 2: Stand two full blocks on end position them so both corners are sitting on your inside line. : a r 7 it tomprii 11 Note: If radius is tighter than 10', or if you want a softer curve, cut the blocks in half prior to starting Step 2 (8" x 48" blocks) Step 3: You will see a gap on the back two panels. Measure this and rip cut 'h of the total measurement off each side of the inside panels. (If it is 3" you will need to cut 11/2" off each inside panel.) Step 4: Put these two connectors in upside down. (When you pull the zip tie tight it will not pop out the connectors.) • • NO= 65 � "444% eiovi un�'` Step S: Spray foam the . .:�� openings between each block Step 5: Zip tie inside connectors (top and bottom). Step 7: Screw 2 or 3 masonite bands to the webs on the outside. Step 6: Zip tie radius wall to the standard ECO -Block wall. Step 9: Screw masonite bands to the radius and back to the standard ECO - Block wall. Step 10: After completing the first course, you will need to build an identical section. Place the new section on top of your first course and screw both sections together. Cover 2 webs on each section at least. (Scrap plywood strips or 2x4s work fine.) 66 • ECO-BIockTM ICFs Standard Blocks: • Packaged 6 blocks in BLUE bag. Dimensions: 32.5x 16.5x48inches • Weight: 34.8 lbs. • Volume: 14.9 cubic feet 4 -Inch Corner Block: • Packaged 6 blocks in BLACK bag. (three left/three right) • Dimensions: 32x18.5x49 inches • Weight: 18 lbs. • Volume: 16.7 cubic feet 6 -Inch Corner Block: • Packaged 6 blocks in GREEN bag. (three left/three right) • Dimensions: 32x18.5x49 inches • Weight: 17 lbs. • Volume: 17 cubic feet 8 -Inch Corner Block: • Packaged 6 blocks in RED bag. (three left/three right) • Dimensions: 32x18.5x49 inches • Weight: 16lbs. • Volume: 16.7 cubic feet Brick Ledge Panel: Packaged 6 panels in YELLOW bag Dimensions: 35x18x48 inches Weight: 11.23 lbs. Volume: 17 cubic feet 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 67 Connectors 4 -Inch Connectors Packaged 1000 to a box (BLACK label). Dimensions: 22.75x15.5x10 inches Weight: 32 lbs. Volume: 2.04 cubic feet 6 -Inch Connectors: Packaged 500 to a box (GREEN label). Dimensions: 22.5x 11.5x 10 inches Weight: 27.5 lbs. Volume: 1.5 cubic feet 8 -Inch Connectors Packaged 500 to a box (RED label). Dimensions: 22.75 x 15.5 x 10 inches Weight: 36 lbs. Volume: 2.04 cubic feet Connectors Splice: • Packaged 1000 to a box(ORANGE label) Dimensions: 22.5 x 11.5 x 10 inches • Weight:21.5lbs. Volume: 1.5 cubic feet Brick ledge Rail: • Packaged 50/tube (YELLOW label). • Dimensions: 44x3.5 inches Weight: 7.5 lbs. Volume: 0.24 cubic feet 1 -Inch Extensions: • Packaged 500/box (BLUE label). • Dimensions: 11.25 x 11 x 9 inches. • Weight: 10.5 lbs. Volume: 0.64 cubic feet Note: All ECO-BlockTM ICFs are packaged in UV protective color -coded bags. These bags can safely be stored outside, however, it is recommended that the bags not be placed in direct contact with the ground. 68 THE TABLES BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM Prescriptive Method for Insulating Concrete Forms in Residential Construction (Portland Cement Association, Skokie, IL, May 1998) AND ARE TO BE USED ONLY WITHIN THE ASSUMPTIONS AND RESTRICTIONS LAID OUT IN THAT DOCUMENT. THESE TABLES ARE SUPERSEDED BY THE LOCAL BUILDING CODE OR ORIGINAL ENGINEERING PERFORMED FOR THE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION PROJECT. Minimum Vertical Wall Reinforcement for ICF Crawlspace Walls Wall Thickness (inches) Maximum Unbalance d Backfill Height (feet) Minimum Vertical Maximum Equivalent Fluid Denisty 30 pcf Reinforcement Maximum Equivalent Fluid Denisty 45 pcf Maximum Equivalent Fluid Denisty 60 pcf 4 4 #4@32" #3@I8"; #4@28"; #5@38" #3@]2"; #4@22"; #5@28" 6 4 4 #4@48" N/R #4@48" NIR #4@48" 8 NIR Minimum Horizontal Wall Reinforcement for ICF Basement Walls Maximum Height of Basement Wall feet (meters) Location of Horizontal Reinforcement 8 (2.4) One No. 4 bar within 12 inches (305 mm) of the top of the wall story and one No. 4 bar near mid -height of the wall story 9 (2.7) One No. 4 bar within 12 inches (305 mm) of the top of the wall story and one No. 4 bar near third points of the wall story 10 (3.0) One No. 4 bar within 12 inches (305 mm) of the top of the wall story and one No. 4 bar near third points of the wall story 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 • 69 Minimum Vertical Wall Reinforcement for 8 -Inch Thick Flat ICF Basement Walls Max. Height of Basement Wall (feet) Maximum Unbalanced Backfill Height (feet) Minimum Maximum Equivalent Fluid Density 30 pcf Vertical Reinforcement Maximum Equivalent Fluid Density 45 pcf Maximum Equivalent Fluid Density 60 pcf 4 N/R N/R N/R 5 N/R NIR N/R 8 6 N/R N/R N/R 7 N/R #3@8"; #4@14"; #3@6"; #4@ 10"; #5@20"; #6@28" #5@16"; #6@20" 4 N/R N/R N/R 5 N/R N/R N/R 9 6 N/R N/R #3@8"; #4@l4"; #5@20'; #6@28" 7 N/R #3@6"; #4@12"; #3@4"; #4@8"; #5@18"; #6@26" #5@14'; #6@18" 8 #3@8"; #4@14"; #3@4"; #4@8"; #3@4"; #4@6"; #5@22"; #6@28" #5@14"; #6@I8" #5@10"; #6@14" 4 N/R N/R N/R 5 N/R N/R N/R 6 N/R N/R #3@6"; #4@12"; 10 #5@l8"; #6@26" 7 NIR #3@6"; #4@12"; #3@4"; #4@8'; #5@18'; #6@24" #5@12'; #6@18" 8 #3@6"; #4@12"; #3@4"; #4@8"; #3@4"; #4@6"; #5@20"; #6@26" #5@12"; #6@16" #5@8"; #6@12" 9 #3@6"; #4@10"; #3@4"; #4@6"; #4@4"; #5@6"; #5@14"; #6@20" #5@10"; #6@12" #6@10" • 70 1 td) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Minimum Horizontal Wall Reinforcement for ICF Above -Grade Walls ICF Wall Type and Minimum Wall Thickness (inches) Maximum Height of Wall Story (feet) Location of Horizontal Reinforcement 8 One No. 4 bar within 12 inches (305 mm) of the top of the wall story and one No. 4 bar near third points in the wall story Flat 9 One No. 4 bar within 12 inches (305 mm) of the top of the wall story 4 and one No. 4 bar near third points in the wall story 10 One No. 4 bar within 12 inches (305 mm) of the top of the wall story and one No. 4 bar near fourth points in the wall story 8 One No. 4 bar within 12 inches (305 mm) of the top of the wall story and one No. 4 bar near mid -height in the wall story Flat 9 One No. 4 bar within 12 inches (305 mm) of the top of the wall story 6 and one No. 4 bar near third points in the wall story 10 One No. 4 bar within 12 inches (305 mm) of the top of the wall story and one No. 4 bar near third points in the wall story 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 71 Minimum Vertical Wall Reinforcement for Flat ICF Above -Grade Walls Max. Wind Speed (mph) Max. Wall Height per Story (feet) Minimum Vertical Reinforcement Supporting ICF Second Story and Light -Frame 4 Roof 6 Supporting Light -Frame Roof Only Supporting Light Second Story and Wall Thickness -Frame Roof (inches) 4 6 4 6 8 #4@32" N/R N/R @ N/R 9 #4@32" NIR #4@32" N/R #3@20"; #4@24"; N/R 70 #5,26" 10 #4@32" NIR #4@32" N/R #3@20"; #4@24"; N/R #5 (26" 8 #4@32" N/R #4@32" NIR #4@32" N/R 9 #4@32" N/R #3@28"; #4@32"; NIR #3@14"; #4@l8"; N/R 80 #5_@34" _._...#5[x,20° 10 #3@16"; #4@26"; N/R #3@16"; #4@26"; NIR Design Required N/R #5(34" #5(x,34" g #4@32" #4@96" #4@32" #4@96" #4@32" 44@96" 9 #3@16"; #4@26"; #4@46" #3@18"; #4@20"; #4@96" Design Required #4@96" 90L. #5@34" #522" 10 Design Required #4@96" #3@10"; #4@12"; #4@96" Design Required #4@96" #5A14" 8 #3@18"; #4@30"; #4@96" #3@18"; #4@30"; #4@96" #4@32" #4@96" 45@4Q" #5@40" 100 9 #3@12"; #4@22"; #4@96" #3@12"; #4@16"; #4@96" Design Required #4@96" #5@30" #5(16" 10 Design Required #4@96" Design Required #4@96" Design Required #4@96" 8 #3@14"; #4@20"; #4@96" #3@14"; #4@18"; #4@96" Design Required #4@96" #5@24" #5@20" 110 9 Design Required #4@96" Design Required #4@96" Design Required #4@96" 10 Design Required #4@96" Design Required #4@96" Design Required #4@96" (wad) 1 1 Maximum Allowable Clear Spans for Flat ICF Lintels in Load -Bearing Walls No. 4 Bottom Bar Size Minimum Linte Thickness, T (inches) Minimum LintelSupporting Depth, D (inches) Light- Frame Only Maximum Maximum Clear Span Supporting Light- Frame Second Story and Roof Ground Snow Load Supporting ICF Second Story Light - Frame Roof (psf) 30 70 30 70 30 70 4 8 4"-9" 4'-2" 3'-10 3'-4" 3'-5" 4'-6" 3'-1 " 12 6'-8" 5'-5" 5'-0" 4'-5" 4'-0" 16 7'-11" 6'-5" 6'-0" 5'-3" 5'-4" 4'-10" 20 8'-11" 7'-4" 6'-9" 6'-0" 6-1" 5'-6" 24 9'-10" 8'-1" 7'-6" 6'-7" 6'-9" 6'-1" 6 8 5'-2" 4'-2" 3'-10 3'-5" 3'-5" 3'-1" 12 16 6'-8" 7'-10" 5'-5" 6-5" 5'-0" 6-0" 4'-5" 5'-3" 4'-6" 5'-4" 4'-1" 4'-10" 20 8'-10" 71-3" 6'-9" 6'-0" 6'-1" 5'-6" 24 9'-8" 8'-0" 7'-5" 6'-7" 6'-8" 6'-0" 8 8 5'-2" 4'-2" 3'-11 3'-5" 3'-6" 3'-2" 12 6'-7" 5'-5" 5'-0" 4'-5" 4'-6" 4'-1" 16 7'-9" 6'-5" 5'-11" 5'-3" 5'-4" 4'-10" 20 8'-8" 7'-2" 6'-8" 5'-11" 6'-0" 5'-5" 24 9'-6" 7'-11" 71-4" 6'-6" 6'-7" 6'-O" 10 8 5'-2" 4'-2" 3'-11 3'-5" 3'-6" 3'-2" 12 16 6'-7" 7'-8" 5'-5" 6'-4" 5'-0" 5'-11" 4'-5" 5'-3" 4'-6" 5'-4" 4'-1" 4'-10" 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 4 73 Maximum Allowable Clear Spans for Flat ICF Lintels in Load -Bearing Walls No. 5 Bottom Bar Size Minimum Lintel Thickness, T (inches) Minimum Lintel Depth, D (inches) Supporting Light- Frame Roof Only Maximum Clear Span Supporting Light- Frame Second Story and Roof Supporting ICF Second Story and Light -Frame Roof Maximum Ground Snow Load (psf) 30 70 30 70 30 70 4 8 4'-9" 4'-2" 3'-11" 3'-7" 31_711 3'-5" 12 16 7'-2" 9'-6" 6'-3" 8'-0" 5'-11" 7'-4" 5'-5" 6'-6" 5'-5" 6'-7" 5'-0" 5'-11" 20 111-1" 9'-1" 8'-4" 7'-5" 7'-6" 6'-9" 24 12'-2" 10'-0" 9'-3" 8'-2" 8'-4" 7'-6" 6 8 5'-6" 4'-10" 4'-7" 4'-2" 4'-2" 3'-10 12 8'-3" 6'-9" 6'-3" 5'-6" 5'-7" 5'-0" 16 9'-9" 8'-0" 7'-5" 6'-6" 6'-7" 6'-0" 20 24 10'-11" 12'-0" 9'-0" 9' -ll" 8'-4" 9'-3" 7'-5" 8'-2" 7'-6" 8'-3" 6'-9" 7'-6" 8 8 6'-1" 5'-2" 4'-9" 4'-3" 4'-3" 3'-10 12 8'-2" 6'-9" 6'-3" 5'-6" 5'-7" 5'-0" 16 9'-7" 7'-11" 7'-4" 6'-6" 6'-7" 6'4" 20 10'-10" 8'-11" 8'-4" 7'-4" 7'-6" 6'-9" 24 11'-10" 9'-10" 9'-2" K.1 8'-3" 7'-5" 10 8 6'-4" 5'-2" 4'-10" 4'-3" 4'-4" 3'-11" 12 8'-2" 6'-8" 6'-2" 5'-6" 5'-7" 5'-0" 16 20 9'-6" 10'-8" 7'-11" 8'-10" 7'-4" 8'-3" 6'-6" 7'-4" 6'-7" 7'-5" 5'-11" 6'-9" 24 11'-7" 9'-9" 9'-0" 8'-l" 8'-2" 7'-5" 74 These cross sections are designed to assist with assembly and usage of the ECO -Block ICF building system. They are not intended to replace the requirement of approved building plans that take into account local codes and environmental conditions. (Straight Unit) • (90 -degree Corner Unit) 48' SIIEPANEL VES CONNECTOR TYPICAL PANEL TYPICAL CORNER PANEL (LEFT) 2-1/2' TW. _ y), 44', 6, IR 8' CBRE % 1 ECD -BLOCK LLC INSULATED CONCRETE FORK CHANGING THE WAY YOU BUILD SUITE 16 . 3N S.V. SECOND ST. PA ER 14814 FT. LAUDERDALE, FL, 33302 J DAVISENGINEERS P.A. 8 780 TANIAN] CANAL ROAD MIAMI, FLORIDA 33144 iffbr Q457 06F2566 Fax COZ9 867-116 TYPICAL FORM SHAPES rare stilt F6TS. 114 0 P4'o/c (IN THE CENTER EF CURD BAR LAP 36'. 24'x16 FTG, V/ 3 04 CONT. FORM BOARD CONC. SLAB USE ax6 CUT TO 4 1/4'. THIS WILL SPACE LIVER THE REBAR THE CORRECT DISTANCE TO THE CENTER OF THE BLOCK OJ A 4' CAVITY WALL. WATER STOP DETAIL (AS PER LOCAL CODES) 4'. CO v 16' 24' SLAB DETAIL 3000 PSI CONCRETE 24'x16 "FTG V/ 3 414 CENT. CONC, SLAB W/ DOUBLE MESH x3'-0' ECL --BLOCK) LLC INSULATED CONCRETE Foos CHANGING THE WAY YOU BUILD 11.1151 SUITE f0 . 300 S.V. SEC= ST. P.DI BOX 14014 H. LAUDERDALE, FL. 33302 1 �DAVISENGINEERS P.A. 8750 TAN1AMI CANAL ROAD MIND, FLOM:DA 33144 efhe OM 2664566 fAe rats 861-W56 IJ' ibt.-08 1 r TYPICFOUFWATION DETAIL Kilt H.T.S. r1 SHEET No. 3 OF J • 77 TYP. NAILS DR SCREWS 2'x4' rw 2'X6' 12" 2'x4' 2'X6' DETAIL 'A' 12' C4 OUT OF 4'x8' PLY) lints lick a diagonal brace Fran 2x4 to grand DETAIL 'B' 16' DETAIL IB# C3 OUT IF 4'xB' PLY) EVERY 48' VERTICALLY 2'X6' 2`x 45 •CORNER BRACING 2'x4' ON INSIDE CORNER TO SIDE W/ GREATEST DISTANCE BETWEEN THE WEB AND THE CUT • • T-VALL BRACING PLAN CORNER BRACINGS DETAIL ECD -BLOCK, LLC INSLLATED CDNCRETE FORMS CHANGING THE WAY YOU BUILD SUITE 9 . 300 S.V. ECD ST. PCO, DCO( 14814 FT. LAUDERDALE, ft 33302 DAVIS ENGINEERS P.A. 780 TAHIAN! CANAL ROAD NIMH, FLORIDA 33144 oMk. (915) 066566 • fax MX afi7-1516 l J TYP. FORM BRACING DETAIL 1 fde4. s-teae sok MTS. revision SHEET No. 4 OF J 78 • APPROVED STRART AT REQ'D. SPACING 2'x4' P.T. LEDGER W/ VEDGE A AS RELIT. ROOF TRUSSES STUCCO ON LATH, WOOD OR VAIYC�s SIDING. TYP. VERT.GREIIX. A A 4'/6 V 11 JmST DRYWALL . LEDGER V/ IVICHDRS PLAN 1°A -A" TYP. HORIZ. RE D.F. FIN. FLOOR JOIST HANGER VOID] FL. JOIST VD. LEDGER V/ ANCHORS AS RECI'L P. VERT. REINF. ECO -BLOCK FERNS VH', 6' OR B' CORE CENG SLAP V/ DBL.MESH FOUNDATION AS REVD. TYPICAL WALL SECTION ECD-3LOCK LLC INSULATED CONCRETE FOR CHANGING THE WAY YOU BUILD SUITE 10 . 300 S.V. SECOND ST. Pd. BON 14814 FT, LAUDERDALE, FL 33302 DAVIS ENGINEERS P.A. 710 TAMEAMI CANAL RDAD moi( M1AMI, FLEJ4IDA 33144 ogte POW 066--2566 Foo (302 067-1766 J TYPICAL WALL SECI1ON (2 -STORY) 6 of rite 11-12-98 scolt N.Ts SHEET No. 1thad1 Seam CORE TYP. CONN, OF 2 L 3'x4'xV2'x6 A Li W/ 4-1/2' NELSON STUD AS REQ'D. DISSIMILAR FORMS 6', OR8"CORE CUT WT FUR JOIST SEAT 4' HIGH 2 REQ'D. SPACING. 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